If the dishes are not getting clean: a) Make sure the water is hot enough – it should be at least 140 degrees, which is hot enough to burn you (very hot!) – If it is not hot enough, A) Make sure you are following the proper loading procedures. Use the proper amount of detergent and make sure the detergent is fresh (check expiration or “best if used by” date.). B) select a cycle that provides for a hotter wash water temperature, C) Make sure the lower spray arm is unobstructed and is “free turning”. D) Make sure the bottom inside of the dishwasher is clean and free of debris. E) turn the hot water heater thermostat up to a higher setting. F) Make sure the water is draining and not recirculating dirty water.
If the door isn’t closing:
Make sure the latch assembly is unrestricted and latching properly.
Make sure the door is not hitting anything. Sometimes the screws that anchor the dishwasher to the bottom of the counter top come loose and cause the door to hit the mounting brackets or the screws. Sometimes the dishwasher can twist in the cabinet opening and sit crooked in the space causing the door to hit the side cabinet.
Make sure nothing is blocking the door from opening and closing properly.
If the unit is leaking: Address this issue immediately as water leaking underneath can be damaging your flooring!!!!! a) Make sure you are following the proper loading procedures, including proper type and amounts of detergents (run unit through cycle empty, if it doesn’t leak it is probably a loading problem). b) Make sure the racks are positioned properly. c) Make sure the door is unrestricted around the opening. d) Make sure it is sitting level in the opening. Look at the space along both sides and across the top. This is normally more of a problem if the dishwasher was recently installed. Call 410 682-3232 for service if these tips do not reveal the source of the leak.
If your dishwasher is developing a film on the inside, put 6-7 drops of good quality, name brand regular liquid detergent (the type used for hand washing dishes) in the bottom and put the machine through a regular cycle. This procedure will wash away soap scum, some mineral deposits, and grit. It will also allow the machine to work better. Important note – do not use more than 6-7 drops of detergent because oversudsing can cause a flood! Be proactive, prevent potential floods!
If the above suggestion did not work and the inside of your dishwasher is still brown and discolored from mineral stains, add one Affresh tablet (we sell it in three tablet packets for $9.95 and it works great!) and put the machine through a regular cycle. As an alternative you can also put Lime-away (available at your grocery store) or Tang Citrus Drink into the tank during the wash cycle. The citric acid from these products should remove the mineral buildup and restore the finish! There are a variety of citrus products available over the counter. Call our parts department 410 682-3232 ext 100) and we can send some out to you within one day!
If these suggested tips do not solve the problem, call us at (410) 682-3232 to ask additional questions or for fast, dependable service!
Today’s high efficiency refrigerators will run a lot more than older units. People typically think that because the new unit is running 90% of the time that it is costing them more money to operate. New refrigerators use a modulating compressor. Even though the refrigerator is still running it is doing so at a much lower power level than at start up. The compressor speed is regulated according to internal temperatures, which is based on a number of factors, including the amount of times the door is opened, the room temperature, the amount of food stored inside, and control temperature settings, along with other factors. New refrigerators are less expensive to operate BUT they do not seem to last nearly as long! You can save as much as 75% from what a similar size box that is over 20 years old costs to operate!
If your refrigerator is not running or isn’t cold enough, turn the thermostat up to the next highest setting…
If it comes on, let it run for 24 hours and check temperatures to confirm it is working OK.
Don’t stuff your refrigerator full of food. The internal air needs to circulate in and around the individual food items.
Clear/remove anything blocking the air flow around the outside of the refrigerator (on top, underneath, behind, beside, in front of, etc.). Allow 3″ of clearance all the way around if possible. If not possible make sure the lower grate at the bottom of the refrigerator is kept clean and clear of debris.
If there are condenser coils on the rear of the box, make sure the box is several inches from the wall and nothing is on the top at the rear, blocking the heat from coming off the coils.
If the condenser coils are underneath the refrigerator, clean the coils with a vacuum cleaner thoroughly at least 2 times a year.
If the door is ticking or not closing properly, wipe off the face of the gasket with a wet rag and make sure the interior shelves, drawers and food are not preventing the door from closing from inside.
Tech Tip – Foul Odor
If you notice a stale or foul odor in your refrigerator, there are a number of different odor remover products available. Here are some simple and inexpensive ways you can try to get rid of those unwanted odors: For best results remove all the food from inside both the freezer and refrigerator sections. After thoroughly cleaning out the inside of the refrigerator and freezer sections, throwing away all questionable foods, with the refrigerator running you can crumple up newspapers and stick the wadded sections in the empty (but running) refrigerator for a 24 hour period. This really works! Another method is to sit an open container of baking soda in both sections, without any food in either compartment. I’ve also read after washing down interior walls with baking soda to then apply a light washing using vanilla. Another method is to place a small plate of activated charcoal in both the refrigerator and freezer sections. You can also try fresh coffee grounds. If these methods don’t work, we sell a few different commercial products that are extremely effective!
If these suggested tips do not solve the problem, call Landers Appliance at (410) 682-3232 for fast dependable service.
Make sure your external venting material is compliant with your Use and Care owners manual requirements. If you have the improper venting have it replaced as soon as possible to avoid any potential fire hazard from lint build up. Always replace vinyl and foil venting with rigid and/or metal flex venting. If you are unsure, call or e-mail our office and we will help you determine if you are compliant or not. Many “Use and Care” manual’s show pictures of the acceptable and unacceptable types of venting
Follow the proper loading procedure and machine operation.
Never overload the dryer.
Make sure your clean the dryer lint filter after every load.
If the clothes are not getting dry:
Make sure the dryer has not pushed back against the rear exhaust duct causing an air flow restriction.
Make sure the clothes are coming out of the washer spun damp dry – if the washer is not spinning the clothes damp dry, the dryer will not dry the clothes in a normal amount of time.
Tech Tip – Odors in your clothes coming out of the dryer!
Do you have BAD ODORS in your freshly dryed clothes? If you are painting, refinishing furniture or any wood products etc., in your house or one of your apartments, don’t be surprised if the clothes that come out of your dryer smell funny. In fact, sometimes the odor will be in the air and people believe they have a chemical problem coming from their dryer. Air out the house by opening some windows and re-launder the clothes. The chemicals in paints and refinishing products are heavier than air and fall to the lowest level in a house. The dryer pulls in surrounding air and all these odors into the dryer drum from around the cabinet to create a draft in order to circulate the hot air during the dryer cycle. Once you stop painting, etc and air out the house, the problem will go away after several days.
If these suggested tips do not solve the problem, call Landers Appliance at (410) 682-3232 for fast, dependable service.
Worst case: Red shirt in the white wash and now everything’s pink
Rit Color Remover. This product is specifically meant to remove dye color that’s been transferred to washable white fabrics. Where to find: Fabric stores and drug-store chains.
Worst case: Crayons went through the wash and melted over the clothes and the dryer
Place the clothing item on a stack of paper towels and spray the stained area with WD-40. Leave it for five minutes, then repeat on other side.
Rub in liquid dishwashing detergent, placing fresh towels underneath as color is absorbed.
Wash with chlorine or oxygen bleach, whichever is appropriate, and rinse with warm water.
For the dryer drum:
Scrape off as much wax as possible with a credit card or other nonscratchy tool.
Use a blow-dryer held about 6-8 inches from the drum to create enough heat to melt the wax, and wipe away what you can.
Spray WD-40 or Goo Gone on paper towels, and wipe it again.
Use a little liquid dish detergent and warm water to wash out the dryer.
To be very sure the wax is cleaned out, before you use the dryer on a normal load, first dry a load of rags for 30 minutes.
Worst case: Wool sweater shrunk
Not guaranteed, but this is worth a try. Soak the sweater for a few minutes in a bucket of water to which you’ve added a couple of capfuls of hair conditioner. The hair conditioner will loosen up the fibers enough so that you can lay the sweater on a dry towel and gently pull and stretch it back to shape. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Worst case: Stained underwear or lingerie
Apply a solution of three percent hydrogen peroxide to the stain, let it bubble up, rinse. Repeat until the stain is gone.
Worst case: Clothes left too long in dryer are wrinkled
Return everything to the dryer, put a damp towel into the load and re-dry. Or press garments with a pressing cloth dampened with diluted white vinegar. washer and dryer, try “Mary Ellen’s for Those Days.” It works on whites and colorfast items like magic.
Worst case: White sweater hand-washed with dark clothes is dingy
First soak the item for half an hour in a quart of warm water with a tablespoon each of ammonia and liquid dishwashing detergent. Rinse, and then soak it in a quart of warm water mixed with a tablespoon of vinegar. Finally, rinse well and dry.
Worst case: White tablecloth has yellow stain
Yellow stains are very tricky and can be caused by a variety of reasons. Sometimes the whiteners and brighteners used in the manufacture of a white item simply turn color. Or, as in the case of underarm stains, the fabric itself has been damaged. Both situations are irreversible. Sometimes white linen items can be salvaged. If you’ve tried bleach without success, check out “Mary Ellen’s Formula One for Set-in Stains” — it’s good for white and colorfast items. Over the years, women have written to tell me it even removed stains on old christening gowns. Where to find it: maryellenproducts.com Also, you’ll avoid yellow stains on white fabrics if you never store them with plastic coverings (such as dry cleaning bags).
Taken from House Beautiful Magazine 10/04
Chocolate Stain Removal Treatments
Treat the stain as soon as possible. If you can’t begin the total treatment at least soak the garment in cold water.
Never dry a piece of stained clothing in a dryer unless the stain is fully removed or you are convinced that what remains will never come out. Once you dry a stained garmetn in the clothes dryer the stain will most likely be there forever!
Remove excess Chocolate: Use a dull knife or a spoon to remove any excess bits of chocolate from the fabric. Work carefully to make sure you don’t spread the chocolate to clean parts of the clothing.
Rince with cold water: Using cold water, rinse the BACK of the stained area. This allows the stain to travel back through the least amount of fabric as possible.
Rub in some liquid laundry detergent: Gently rub liquid laundry detergent into the chocolate stain. Allow the clothing to sit for 5 minutes. Then soak the clothing for 15 minutes in cold water. Every 3-5 minutes rub the stained area between your fingers and thumb to loosen the stain. Rinse thoroughly. Continue until no more stain can be removed.
Follow these steps to remove chocolate stains from washable fabrics such as Acrylic, Cotton, Kinen, Nylon, Modacrylic, Olefin, Polyester, and Spandex:
* Wipe up as much of stain as possible without driving the stain further into the fibers!
* Flush the stain with Club Soda
* Sponge the area with a spot lifter or cleaning fluid
* Apply a dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbant pad dampened with the dry spotter.
* Keep the stain moist with dry spotter.
* Let it stand as long as any stain is being lifted from fabric.
* Change the pad as it picks up the stain (don’t keep reusing an old pad).
* Flush with a dry-cleaning solvent.
If any stains remain:
Apply a few drops of dishwashing detergent and a few drops of amonia to the stain, than tamp (the method of bringing a brush down with light strokes on stained durable fabrics and materials) or scrape. Keep the stain moist with detergent and amonia and blot occassionally with an absorbant pad. Flush well with water to remove all traces of amonia. Allow to dry or launder as usual.
Chocolate is a combination stain – a bit of an oil stain and a bit of a dye stain. Begin by rubbing heavy-duty liquid detergent or a paste of powdered and water into the stain. Wash garment as usual with an all-fabric bleach and detergent. Check for stain BEFORE drying. If stain is still present, repeat steps until stain is removed.
Follow the proper loading procedure and machine operation.
Do not over suds the machine. Follow the recommended detergent amounts found in the washers Use and Care Guide. DO NOT follow the directions on the soap bottles/boxes.
Always follow the recommendations for adding the detergent to the wash load.
Never overload the machine.
If the machine is a front loader or a high efficiency model you should be using HE detergent to maximize the washers effectiveness and prevent any soap residues from accumulating. Read the owners manual to determine the type of detergent that is recommended for your machine.
DON’T FOLLOW THE USAGE AMOUNT PER LOAD FOUND ON THE DETERGENT CONTAINER BECAUSE THEY USUALLY ENCOURAGE OVERSUDSING!! FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN YOUR USE AND CARE GUIDE!
Laundry detergents are designed for specific purposes. Liquid is better at removing household stains including grease and powders are better at removing dirt stains. As a general rule farmers and gardeners should use powder and domestic engineers should use liquid!
If the machine is dead:
Make sure the lid / door is closing properly.
Reset the circuit breaker.
Make sure the timer / electronic control and all the selector controls are set properly.
Make sure both water supply faucets are turned on.
If your HE (front or top load High Efficiency) machine is putting off an odor, use one Affresh tablet in a wash cycle per directions on the package. This product is specifically designed to remove odors and mildew and works exceptionally well.
WELL WATER! If you are on a well system or have high sediment content in your water, insert screened hose washers in the end of both washing machine fill hoses where they attach to the external supply faucets. These screens will prevent the washing machine fill valve from collecting the debris in its screens and clogging up causing slow fill times. You may have to replace these screens periodically. It is not recommended to try and clean the screens.
If these suggested tips do not solve the problem, call Landers Appliance at (410) 682-3232 for fast, dependable service.
Always use microwave safe dishes! Do not microwave your food using styrofoam or any freshness wrap products. There are harmful carcinogen’s released into the food when reheated in these types of containers. READ ALL LABELS. IF YOU ARE UNSURE, DON’T! Most containers are labeled on the bottom, identifying them to be microwave safe or not.
Do not use aluminum foil or anything with metal on it (unless your microwave specifically allows it. Check your owners manual). Metal can cause and arc and damage the internal liner of the microwave and even the electrical circuitry.
Wipe the seal off with a wet rag and dry it thoroughly as often as needed.
Do not twist, bend, or slam the door in any way. The door contains a bank of safety switches that prevent the microwave from working if the door does not close properly. These switches are in place because manufacturers do not want microwave energy to be released into the room.
FLASHING NUMBERS! If your microwave begins flashing numbers, won’t take commands, or shows all 8’s, unplug the unit and leave it off for several (15-20) seconds and plug it back in. Sometime this simple trick can reset the microprocessor and the unit will begin to work again!
If these suggested tips do not solve the problem, call us at (410) 682-3232 for fast, dependable service!
If your coil top burners are not heating make sure they are sitting straight and in their proper position. The receptacles they plug into can develop sensitivity to connectivity over time. Due to their design they are prone to needing to be replaced over the life of the range. Smooth top ranges do not have the same burner/receptacle set up and the burners last much longer.
If your oven is not heating, make sure the clock is set on the manual cycle and not the automatic time bake cycle.
On older models you can raise up the top and keep the area clean and free of grease build up. On newer, sealed burner units the top is not designed to be lifted up. DO NOT TRY! You can damage the burners, igniters, the top and other components.
If the top burners are not lighting, wipe off the burner head with a hot, damp rag and the dry completely.
If oven is not heating make sure the clock is set on the manual and not automatic cycle.
Gas ovens use some type of an igniter to light the burner. These igniters (the older styles use a glow type and the new models use a spark type) are the most likely thing to fail if your oven is not heating.
If these suggested tips do not solve the problem, call us at (410) 682-3232 for fast, dependable service!
The way we cook our food is as important as the way we prepare and store it. Inadequate cooking is a common cause of food poisoning. Most foods, especially meat, poultry and eggs, should be cooked thoroughly to kill most food poisoning bacteria.
In general, food should be cooked to a temperature of at least 165°F or hotter. When food is cooked, it should be eaten promptly, kept hotter than 140°F, or cooled, covered and stored in the fridge or freezer
Some people are more at risk from food poisoning than others. Vulnerable groups include pregnant women, young children, the elderly and anyone with an illness. Special care should be taken when preparing, cooking, serving and storing food for these groups.
Food poisoning bacteria grows more easily on some foods than others. These high-risk foods include:
Poultry such as chicken and turkey
Small 0goods such as salami and ham
Prepared salads such as coleslaw, pasta salads and rice salads
Prepared fruit salads.
High risk foods and the temperature danger zone
Take care with high risk foods. You should:
Keep high risk cooked foods out of the ‘temperature danger zone’ of between 41°F and 140°F.
Throw out any high risk cooked food left in the temperature danger zone for more than four hours.
Don’t keep or store any high risk cooked food left in the temperature danger zone for more than two hours. Don’t leave it for later and don’t store it in the fridge.
Cook all food to a temperature of 165°F
How you cook food is very important. Different foods need a different approach:
Aim for an internal temperature of 165°F or hotter when you cook food. Heating foods to at least this temperature kills most food poisoning bacteria. If you have a meat thermometer, check the internal temperature of meat during the cooking process.
Cook mince, sausages, whole chickens or stuffed meats right through to the center. You should not be able to see any pink meat and the juices should be clear.
Cook steak, chops and whole roasts to your preference as food poisoning bacteria are mostly on the surface.
Cook white fish until it flakes easily with a fork.
Cook foods made from eggs such as omelettes and baked egg custards thoroughly.
Take extra care when preparing foods that use raw egg, such as eggnog and homemade mayonnaise. Bacteria on the eggshells can contaminate food and cause food poisoning.
Avoid giving food made with raw eggs to pregnant women, young children, elderly people and anyone with an illness.
Microwaves are a quick and convenient way to cook food. However, if they are not used correctly, they can cook food unevenly. This may leave food partially cooked or not reaching a temperature of 167°F. When you cook food in the microwave:
Cut food into evenly sized pieces if possible, or put larger or thicker items towards the outside edge of the dish.
Cover the food with a microwave safe lid or microwave plastic wrap. This will trap the steam and promote more even cooking.
Rotate and stir food during cooking.
Wait until the standing time is over before you check that the cooking is complete. Food continues to cook even after the microwave is turned off.
Cooling and storing
If you need to store food for later use, wait until the steam stops rising, cover the food and put it in the fridge. This helps keep the food out of the temperature danger zone as fast as possible. Large portions of food cool faster when you put them into shallow trays or divide them into smaller pieces.
If you need to keep food warm, keep it hotter than 140°F and out of the temperature danger zone.
Under ideal conditions, cooked food can be stored in the fridge for a few days. If you want to keep cooked food longer, freeze the food immediately after cooling in the fridge.
Always store cooked food separately from raw food, especially raw meats, poultry and fish. Keep raw meats and poultry at the bottom of the fridge to avoid raw juices dripping onto other food. Ensure that all food is covered or sealed.
Reheat food until it is steaming hot – above 165°F or, preferably, boiling. Food should steam throughout, not just on the edges. Take care when reheating food in a microwave oven. Follow the same actions as when cooking with a microwave to ensure all the food is heated to steaming hot.
Things to remember
Cook food properly – to at least 165°F or hotter.
If you use a microwave, check that the food is cooked evenly throughout.
Cool and store cooked food as soon as possible.
Always run water in the sink when you operate the unit. After you have finished grinding food through the disposal, allow the water to run for several seconds after turning off the disposal. This allows any food in the drain pipe system to clear.
If the unit jams/hums:
Turn the unit off. After turning off, remove anything that has fallen into the grinding chamber. If you are unable to remove whatever is caught in the grinding chamber go to step 2.
Turn the unit off After turning off, insert the “un-jam” tool into the bottom and turn clockwise. Once the tool turns freely, remove whatever was causing the jam from inside the grinding chamber.
If the unit is dead, and you have unjammed the grinding chamber, push in the red reset button located on the bottom of the disposal – if the unit begins to hum and the reset trips again, it is still jammed or has jammed again, see 1 and 2 above and then push the red reset.
If a glass has broken in your sink and shards of glass have gotten into your disposal, make sure the disposal is turned off and there is no standing water in the disposal. Then use the skinny attachment for your vacuum cleaner and vacuum out as much of the glass as is possible (Use a shop vac if you have one). Then run water in the sink for a few seconds, and turn the disposal on. The small remaining fragments should be ground up into powder by the cutter blade of the disposal and washed down your drain.
If you have unjammed the grinding chamber and it turns freely but the disposal continues to hum when turned on, the motor is probably weak and the disposal needs to be replaced. Call our office to discuss your options. 410 682-3232
NOISY! Garbage disposals can become noisy from the swivels on the cutter blade becoming stuck of frozen in place. You can loosen the swivels by dumping a tray of ice cubes into the grinding chamber, the same way you would grind food.
ODORS! Ground orange peels will remove stale odors and put off a fresh scent. We also sell a disposal cleaning product sold by Maytag that foams and is designed to remove odors and also clean the external drain lines.
If these tips do not solve the problem, call us at (410) 682-3232 to ask additional questions or for fast, dependable service!
Freezers / Chest & Upright
Follow all procedures outlined under refrigerator heading.
Do not pack the freezer.
If the unit is not self defrosting and the temperatures begin to rise, check the frost build up on the inside of the freezer. If it is heavily frosted, manually defrost the freezer by turning it off at the thermostat, unplug from wall and allow 12 hours for the unit to defrost, with both doors open.
If the unit is not an automatic self defrosting model, defrost the unit once a year or as often as needed. Follow proper defrosting methods (do not use a knife, pick, hammer, chisel, screwdriver, etc. Or any sharp object).
These are the mass-energy consumers in your household, as they’re in use 24 hours a day. If investing in an ENERGY STAR-labeled fridge is not possible at this time, set your fridge thermostat around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Also dust off or vacuum your machine’s condenser coils twice a year for increased efficiency.
These units are also big consumers, as they too are generally on 24/7. ENERGY STAR products will help to increase energy efficiency and cut costs. Keep in mind that top and bottom unit freezers are more efficient than fridge-freezer units next to each other. If you keep an extra freezer, place it strategically in a cool area—not in the garage where heat tends to collect and require more energy for cooling. A separate chest freezer is your best bet.
Beyond ENERGY STAR (which—you guessed it—applies here too), there also are some additional features that can maximize your energy efficiency. Front-loaders conserve water and energy by 40-50%! Washing full loads and washing with cold water as much as possible, pushes this figure towards the high end of the scale. If you currently have a top-loader, utilize a range of features available for adjusting temperature, selecting load size and varying cycles. Exercising your discretion with these features can boost the conservation impact of your machine.
Dryers are not currently part of the ENERGY STAR program, as energy consumption is similar for all models across the board. If you’re not in a position (or climate area) to set up an old-fashioned clothesline for sun-drying, here are some tips to save energy during drying:
Find a model with automatic shut-off, or one that alerts you when loads are done.
Designate one or two days per week “laundry days” and string loads one after another in order to maximize the heat left over from previous loads.
The chest freezer logic applies here as well—place dryers in a warm part of the house so that less energy is required to generate heat.
Much more effective at cleaning and much more water efficient than washing by hand, the more energy-efficient units come with settings that allow you a great amount of control over energy expenditure. Most of the energy used by this process goes to heating water before it even gets to your machine. Here are a couple of tips:
Always wash a full load and select the shortest cycle appropriate.
Don’t utilize the pre-rinse function on your machine unless necessary.
While gas stoves are definitely more efficient than electrics, they can prove to be a hazardous nuisance to those with respiratory sensitivities. If you are using an electric range, here are some tips to optimize energy use:
When heating water and cooking dishes that allow for it, cover your pots and pans to trap heat and reduce cooking time.
Turn off burners shortly before cook time is over—the burners will remain hot enough to complete your culinary masterpiece.
Use pans that completely cover a burner to maximize your heat energy usage.
Air Conditioners and Fans
Keeping filters clean and turning off ACs when you’re out cuts costs and saves energy. Ceiling fans can be paired with air conditioners to help a room feel colder, which is a great summer tactic. During the winter, make sure the fan operates in a counterclockwise direction—this pulls heat upwards and the fan’s rotation then distributes air down the walls.
Wash in cold water: About 90% of the energy consumed for washing clothes is due to heating the water. Unless you’re dealing with oily stains, the warm or cold water setting on your machine will generally do a good job of cleaning your clothes. Switching your temperature setting from hot to warm can cut energy use in half for washing one load. Using the cold cycle when you can reduces energy use even more.
Fill it up: Clothes washers use relatively the same amount of energy regardless of the size of the laundry load, run full loads whenever possible.
Avoid the sanitary cycle: This super hot cycle, available on some models, increases energy use significantly, so only use it when absolutely necessary.
Activate the high spin speed option: If your clothes washer has spin options, choose a high spin speed or the extended spin option to reduce the amount of remaining moisture in your clothes after washing. This decreases the amount of time it takes to dry your clothes.
Use a drying rack or hang clothes outside: Air-drying clothes (indoors or outdoors) helps them last longer and saves energy.
Leave the door open after use: Front-loading washers use airtight seals to make sure no moisture leaks while the machine is in use. However, when the machine is not in use, this seal can trap moisture in the machine. Be sure to leave the door ajar for an hour or two after use to allow any of the remaining moisture inside the machine to evaporate. Make sure children do not climb into the machine while the door is open.
Always use HE (High Efficiency) detergent: Front-loading clothes washers are designed specially to use only High Efficiency detergent. Using regular detergent in a front-loading washer will create too many suds in the machine. This leads to decreased washing and rinsing performance. Over time it can lead to mechanical problems, and foul odors.
All-purpose laundry detergents that are especially effective on food, greasy and oily soils. Since they are liquids, they are good for pretreating spots and stains.
All-purpose laundry detergents which are ideal for general washday loads. Especially effective on lifting out clay and ground-in dirt, thus ideal for children’s play clothes.
Most liquid and powder detergents are now concentrated. They come in much smaller packages _ yet offer the same amount of cleaning power as the familiar products in larger packages. You need less ultra detergent than with an unconcentrated product, so follow the label instructions and use the measuring cap or scoop that comes with the product.
One detergent that does two jobs. Look for:
Liquid or powder detergents with built-in fabric softeners
Powders detergents with color-safe bleach
Liquid detergents with bleach alternative
Fragrance or Dye-Free Detergents
Many laundry products are now fragrance-free and/or dye-free. Read product labels for specific details.
Front Load Washer Detergent Use Warning!
We have found a repeated service condition occurring in front load washers when using the sheeted 3 in 1 laundry detergent products. All in one laundry detergent products are becoming quite popular today because they are easy to use, prevent messy spills and are premeasured insuring you use the proper amount of detergent for every load. What is not to love about all that? Having your detergent, fabric softener and anti-static additives (included in a single sheet as is the case with the Purex brand) or detergent, stain release, and all-color bleach (as is the case with Tide Pods FOR MORE INFORMATION SEE http://www.pg.com/en_US/downloads/innovation/factsheet_FINAL_Tide_PODS.pdf ) in a single dose self contained package makes life simple.
However, the single sheet types, when used in front load washing machines have been slipping between the inner wash tub and outer tub and clogging the lint catcher sump or making their way to the pump assm. In either case it prevents the washer from draining properly usually resulting in a service call to our repair company. I checked the Purex web site and found a warning posted under the “Frequently Asked Questions – Can You Use Purex Complete 3-in-1 in HE Washing Machines?” The warning says “Due to the design of some front-loading models, it is possible for small articles such as socks or laundry sheets to pass through the gap between the drum and seal into the internal workings of the washer. If your front-loading washer has a visible gap, we recommend using a small mesh bag to contain the laundry sheet, just as you would for other small items. Always refer to your washing machine owner’s manual for proper operating procedures.” http://www.purex.com/products/detergents/purex-complete-3-in-1
If you are hooked on using this product as many of our customers are, please take the advice of the product manufacturer and place the sheet in a small mesh bag to prevent having to have a costly service call to remedy the situation. In fact it may be wise to use a small mesh bag for all your tiny washables such as crew socks, underwear, gloves, etc. as these have also been known to get between the tubs and create a drain problem.
If you are currently experiencing a slow or no drain problem with your front load washing machine call our office and schedule a service call at 410 682-3232 or go to www.LandersAppliance.com. If you are handy and think you can tackle the problem yourself ask for our service manager Jim and he can give you some pointers on how to do access the clean out sump.
Convert soils into colorless, soluble particles which are easily removed by detergents, then carried away in the wash water. Brighten and whiten fabrics; help remove stubborn stains.
Sodium hypochlorite bleaches (also called chlorine or liquid household bleach) are the more powerful laundry bleaches; they disinfect, as well as clean and whiten. They work on many whites and colorfast washables _ but not on wools or silks. Oxygen (color-safe) bleaches are more gentle, working safely on all washable fabrics. They work best in maintaining whiteness, not in restoring it.
For Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach, read the label and dilute as directed. For best results, add 5 minutes after the wash cycle has begun to agitate in order to avoid destroying enzymes and fluorescent whiteners in the detergent.
For Oxygen Bleach, add directly to the wash water before the clothes are added. Do not pour powdered bleach directly on wet clothes. Most effective in warm-to-hot water. IMPORTANT: Have doubts whether a garment is safe to bleach? Don’t guess _ you may be sorry! Read the garment’s care label for specific instructions. Test first for colorfastness in an inconspicuous area by following the instructions on bleach package label.
Decrease static cling, which is especially useful when washing permanent-press and synthetic fibers. Make fabrics softer and fluffier… reduce drying time … reduce wrinkling … make ironing easier.
Liquid fabric softeners go into the final rinse water; one type can also be used on a cloth and tossed into the dryer. Follow the label directions.
Softener sheets go into the dryer.
Packet-type softeners attach to the fin of the dryer drum.
When adding liquid softeners to the rinse water, be sure to dilute first. Do not pour directly on fabrics, because this may cause staining or spotting.
IMPORTANT: Fabric softeners may reduce the effectiveness of flame retardancy on fabrics, like those used in children’s sleepwear.
The Soap and Detergent Association has compiled an historical and technical record on the role of sanitation, medical advances, cleanliness and hygiene on public health and infection control titled “Against Disease: The Impact of Hygiene and Cleanliness on Health” at www.againstdisease.com
This 117-page book is a valuable resource for professionals and students in the medical, sanitation, education and public health fields, as well as the general public. You can down load a copy from the SDA web site
ENERGY STAR does not label clothes dryers since there is little difference in the energy use between models. Here are some ways to reduce energy consumption when using your clothes dryer:
Use the moisture sensor option: The moisture sensor automatically shuts off the machine when the clothes are dry. Not only will this save energy, it will save wear and tear on your clothes caused by over-drying.
Clean the lint filter: Cleaning the filter after every load will improve air circulation and increase the efficiency of the dryer.
With the warmer spring weather, comes the typical spring storms that often cause power outages. The following information is important to remember if you encounter a prolonged power outage:
Note the time the power outage begins. Discontinue all cooking operations and discard any food that has not yet reached the final cooking temperature. Do not place hot food in refrigerators or freezers, as this will rapidly raise the temperature inside the refrigerator or freezer and may make more food unusable. Use ice or/ice baths to rapidly cool small batches of hot food.
Potentially hazardous foods are those foods such as high protein foods (meat, eggs, dairy) and cooked vegetables that support the rapid and progressive growth of disease causing bacteria. Food borne illnesses can be caused by bacteria that can multiply rapidly in foods when the food is held in the temperature danger zone (41° to 140°F). Refrigerated potentially hazardous foods must be stored at or below 41°F. Frozen foods must be maintained frozen. Hot cooked potentially hazardous food must be maintained at 140°F or above.
Leave your freezer door closed. A full freezer should keep food safe about two days — a half-full freezer, about one day. Add bags of ice or dry ice to the freezer if it appears the power will be off for an extended time. You can safely re-freeze thawed foods that still contain ice crystals and are 41°F or less.
Food in refrigerators should be safe as long as the power is out no more than about four to six hours. Leave the door closed; every time you open it, needed cold air escapes, causing the foods inside to reach unsafe temperatures. If it appears the power will be off for more than six hours, use a pan or large dish and place ice (chunk is best) or frozen gel packs in the refrigerator section. That will keep potentially hazardous foods at 41° or below. Discard any potentially hazardous food that has been above 41°F for four hours or more, reached a temperature of 45°F or higher for any length of time, or has an unusual color, odor, or texture.